Instructions
Cars & Trucks
Fire Extinguisher Brackets
Seat Rail Mounted:
The majority of our fire extinguisher brackets mount to either the front or rear seat rail bolts (please check the page for your specific bracket to see the mounting options for your bracket). On some vehicles, there may be a plastic cover over the bolts. These plastic covers can usually be removed by pulling on them or gently prying with a trim tool. If the trim will not release, please research the proper technique for your vehicle. If your vehicle has trim covering the bolts, this will more than likely not be possible to reinstall with the bracket in place.
Once any trim is removed, remove the two seat rail bolts (or nuts) where you wish to install the bracket. Most of our brackets are designed to mount above the seat rails, but some mount under the rails or can be mounted either way (please check the product page for your bracket) as mounting under the rails can sometimes provide more clearance between the seat and extinguisher. At this point, we suggest attaching your fire extinguisher to the bracket using the supplied nuts and bolts. Slide the bracket into place and reinstall the bolts or nuts, torquing them to factory specifications.
Under Seat Mounted:
While most of our brackets mount to the seat rails, some mount to holes on the underside of the seat. If your bracket comes with more than two nuts and bolts (the rounded head hex bolts to mount the extinguisher to the bracket), you more than likely have a seat mounted extinguisher (please confirm this on the product page for your bracket). Set aside the extinguisher mounting bolts and use the remaining bolts to attach the bracket under the seat to the holes shown in the product pictures. Be sure to tighten them thoroughly. Once installed, install the extinguisher onto the bracket using the two rounded head hex bolts.
Fire Extinguisher Brackets (Bolt In)
Before installing, please confirm that the bracket included with your fire extinguisher is compatible with our mounting bracket.
We highly suggest mounting the bracket on a metal surface for safety. In the event of a crash, plastic trim panels could crack and allow the fire extinguisher to become a projectile. Endurolite is not responsible for injuries due to improper installation.
Hold the bracket up to where you would like to mount it and mark the bolt holes onto the surface using a marker or scribe. Remove the bracket, and drill the holes (for the included rivet nuts, you will need a 9mm hole). Once the holes are drilled, install the included rivet nuts using a rivet nut tool. Once that is compete, proceed to install the bracket, followed by the fire extinguisher. For our flat bracket, it may be easier to install the extinguisher onto the mounting bracket before bolting it down as long as the bolts are not obscured.
Auxiliary Fuse Panels
Our auxiliary fuse panels mount to various locations in the engine bay (please refer to the product page for fitment location). First, install the fuse panel into place. Once mounted, use an allen key and a wrench on the nut to attach the breaker and fuse panel. The breaker will install with the two included m6x20 bolts and nuts, while the fuse panel will install with the four included m4x20 bolts and nuts. If you are using a fuse panel other than the ones that the panel is designed for, the panel can be easily drilled as needed.
Once installed, proceed to run a positive wire to the breaker (from either the battery or starter solenoid). Attach a wire from the breaker to the fuse block, and then install any accessories onto the fuse block. Be sure to use wire of an appropriate gauge and rating for your application. Endurolite is not responsible for any electrical issues caused by improper installation.
Our fuse panels are compatible with the following:
Breakers: Blue Sea Systems 185 & 285 Series, Generic 12v rectangular breakers (with dimensions of 74x48mm, type shown in listing pictures).
Fuse Panels: Generic 12 blade fuse panels with ground posts (with dimensions of 138x85mm) as shown in listing pictures.
Any panels sold after 4/1/2025 are compatible with the following Blue Sea Systems fuse panels: 5029 (12 blade, no ground), 5025 (6 blade with ground)
Fog Light Brackets (Frame Rail Mounted)
Toyota Tacoma (PN: 020002B)
Where the bumper support (aka crash bar, impact bar, etc.) connects to the frame rail, remove the inner, and upper outer nut (leave the bottom outer nut in place). Ensure you have the bracket for the correct side in hand (the longer arm will be on the inside of the frame rails). Bring the bracket up into place from behind the bottom of the bumper cover, feeding the arm through the upper slot of the lower grill. Pull the bracket forward to clear the studs, then push the bracket onto the corresponding studs. Thread the nuts back onto the studs, ensure the bracket is level, then tighten the nuts down and torque them to factory specifications. Once the brackets are installed, light pods can then be bolted on and wired.
BMW E90 Trunk Drawer (Including Light Relocation & Dividers)
Required tools: Drill, 9mm drill bit (stop collars suggested, step bit can also be used), M6 compatible rivet nut tool, permanent marker, 4mm allen key, 2.5mm allen key, blue thread locker (optional), pair of helping hands (suggested).
-If installing the Light Relocation Kit or Drawer Dividers, we highly suggest installing these items before the drawer as it is much easier. Please jump to the bottom of this section for installation instructions.
-Begin by removing the trunk drawer from it's packaging and locating the hardware bag. Use a 2.5mm allen key to remove the handle screws and flip the handle around to face outward. Ensure the plastic installation spacer is installed in the front of the right slide (this will ensure your slides are mounted evenly).
-If you have a helper, now is the time to put them to use. Ensure the drawer slides are fully closed, and have your helper hold the trunk drawer to the ceiling of the trunk while you adjust the exact location of the drawer. Be sure to center the drawer in the trunk (the middle of the drawer front should be in line with the center of the trunk light. Once the drawer is lined up, mark the center of the four mounting holes onto the ceiling of the trunk. You can now set the drawer off to the slides.
-Prepare your drill and rivet nut tool. We suggest removing the carpet behind the rear headrests before drilling, but if you do not wish to do that, we highly suggest using a stop collar on the drill bit to prevent it from damaging the carpet. On the marks you made earlier for the mounting bolts, go ahead and drill the holes out, and then insert and install the rivet nuts into the holes using the rivet nut tool.
-Once your rivet nuts are installed, lift the trunk drawer into place and secure it using the four included mounting bolts. While optional, we suggest using blue thread locker on the bolts to prevent them from backing out unintentionally. Once the bolts are in, remove the installation spacer (you will need to open the drawer) and then your trunk drawer is ready to go! Pull the black locking lever on the side of the drawer while pulling the handle to release. The locking lever should automatically click back into the locked position when the drawer is fully closed.
Light relocation kit: Start by removing and unplugging the stock light. On the roof of the trunk near the outside edge, there are two keyhole shaped holes (one on each side). Run the wire of the new light through that hole and to hole for the original light. Plug the connector in to the wiring harness of the car. Install the blanking plate where the original light was, and then click the new light up into the hole.
Dividers: If you purchased the divider kit, it can be easily installed using an allen key and a wrench. The dividers can be installed in any combination, but the center (long) divider must be installed with the thicker section at the front of the drawer, and the side dividers will only fit on the sides.
Wastegate Actuator Arm - Alfa Romeo Giulia + Stelvio 2.0T
There are many Youtube videos available covering the replacement of the wastegate actuator arm using parts from other manufacturers. We suggest watching a video or two covering the installation, but we have also provided written instructions below.
-Remove engine cover by prying open the two small bolt covers near the front of the engine cover, and then removing the two 10mm bolts that hold the cover in place. Once these are removed, you should be able to work the cover out. Be careful not to snag any hoses or wires while removing the cover.
-Near the right side of the engine, you will see one end of the wastegate arm protruding from under a heat shield. In order to replace the arm, this heat shield will need to be loosened and shifted out of the way. The heat shield is held in place by four bolts: one on the top, two on the right side (one near the top and one near the bottom) and one in the rear that is somewhat hidden and will likely require a socket extension to reach. Once these are removed, you should be able to shift the top of the heat shield up enough to reach the rear post that the arm attaches to.
-Use a pick or pliers to remove the spring from the hole near the back of the arm. Once this spring is released, use a pick, screwdriver or pliers to remove the C clips holding the arm in place. Once these are removed, the old arm should come off with relative ease. At this point, we suggest wiping off both posts in order to remove debris. If you wish, you can apply a small amount of grease to each post as this may increase the life of the part.
-Place the new arm on the posts (be sure the spring hole is on the correct side) and reinstall the C clips. Each of our wastegate arms are thoroughly inspected and we expect them to fit perfectly, however if any additional clearance is needed, use a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to make the holes slightly wider. Be sure not to make them any larger than needed to install and to thoroughly clean out the holes after sanding to remove any abrasive. Reinstall the spring into the hole. Reinstall the heat shield, and then proceed to reinstall the engine cover and associated bolts.
-We suggest checking the play of the arm after 40,000 miles, and every 15,000 miles after that. Removal is not required to check for play, simply attempt to wiggle the front end of the arm that sticks out from under the heat shield.
Motorcycles
90 Degree Plate Brackets
Swing Arm Mounted:
Swing arm mounted brackets will mount either above or below the swing arm depending on the application (please refer to the pictures on the product page to determine where your bracket installs). We suggest first mounting your license plate to the bracket using the supplied nuts and bolts. Most brackets that mount above the swing arm will install using the same bolt locations as the chain guard. Simply unbolt the the chain guard and install the bracket using the chain guard bolts (or new bolts if they are supplied with your bracket). For brackets that mount underneath the swing arm, simply line up the holes on the bracket with the existing holes on the swing arm, and install the supplied hardware. Some of our brackets that mount underneath the swing arm utilize the lower chain guard bolts/holes and some may come with a spacer to provide extra support for the bracket.
Passenger Foot Peg Mounted:
This style of bracket is very easy to install. We suggest first mounting your license plate to the bracket using the supplied nuts and bolts. Remove the bolt for the passenger foot peg (be sure you are on the correct side of the motorcycle, refer to product pictures for guidance), then remove the passenger foot peg. Place the bracket on the stud, place the foot peg back in place, and reinstall the bolt. Hold the bracket level and tighten down the bolt to factory specifications. After tighting down the bolt, be sure to check that the bracket is securely in place.
Fender Mounted Plate Brackets
Royal Enfield Scram 411 + Himalayan 411:
Both our standard and pannier rack compatible brackets install in the same way. The factory mud guard MUST BE REMOVED for this installation to be possible. We suggest first installing your license plate onto the bracket using the four provided nuts and bolts. Once the plate is installed, you will need to locate the two threaded holes under the rear of the fender. Using the allen bolts from the mud guard, install the plate bracket into the threaded holes. Be sure to tighten the bolts appropriately.
If you are installing the pannier compatible bracket (which is designed for the OEM Royal Enfield pannier rack), the turn signal wiring can be ran under the center of the rear fender and through the back of the bracket (between the mounting holes).
Scram only: If you are installing the standard bracket (for motorcycles without pannier racks), please consider our Rear Turn Signal Relocation Bracket to mount your turn signals.
Scram only: Included with your license plate bracket will be two black plastic spacers. These spacers are only needed if you have not already removed the rear mud guard. When removing the mud guard, these plastic spacers will go in place of the rubber grommets that hold the rear fender to the grab bar/frame. If you are also installing our Turn Signal Relocation bracket, please refer to those instructions. The same spacers are included with both products.
Aluminum Chain Guards
Our chain guards tend to be fairly easy to install. Simply remove the nuts and bolts holding your stock chain guard in place, and then remove the original guard. Slide in the new aluminum guard, insert the stock bolts (and nuts when necessary). If new nuts and bolts are supplied with your aluminum chain guard, use those instead of the original hardware. Ensure all bolts are tightened securely and check that the guard does not have excessive play. We suggest re-checking the play and tightness of the bolts after the first 10-20 miles of riding to ensure that the guard is installed securely.
Fog Light Mounts
Front License Plate Mounted:
If there are bolts already installed, go ahead and remove those bolts and any plastic/rubber covers they may be holding on. Line up the fog light bracket with the holes and install the bolts (if we supply new bolts with your bracket, use those instead) back into their holes , being sure to tighten them securely. Once the bracket is mounted, you can proceed to mount any lights or other accessories to the bracket.
Turn Signal Relocation Bracket (Royal Enfield Scram 411)
You will need a 10mm wrench and a 4mm allen key for this installation.
-Unbolt and dislocate the rear turn signals
-Remove the two 4mm allen bolts under the rear fender. Then remove the three 10mm bolts under the fender. This will loosen the fender and allow the metal support bracket to drop down at an angle.
-Swing down end of the metal support bracket closest to the front of the bike, and then remove the two remaining 4mm allen bolts that are holding the plastic tail piece in place.
-Pull down the plastic tail and clip the zip ties holding the wires in place. Once this is done, you can unplug the turn signal connectors. Once the tail assembly is removed, finish removing the turn signals from the tail.
-Install the turn signals onto the relocation bracket using the original nut and hex bolt.
-Under the rear fender, there is a rubber grommet that installs from the bottom and has a metal insert that installs from the top. If these have not already fallen out, remove them. Install the supplied plastic spacers in place of the rubber grommet, reusing the metal upper spacer. Proceed to install the relocation bracket by plugging in the turn signals, and then bolting the bracket (using the two longer 10mm bolts and washers you removed earlier) through the spacers and into the rear frame holes.
-Collect the wires and secure them into the bracket, using a zip tie to hold them in place. Ensure the turn signals function correctly.
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This bracket will technically fit with the Royal Enfield hard panniers and racks, but the turn signals will be at least partially obscured from most angles. Due to this, we do not suggest using this product with panniers as it may be a safety hazard.
Universal Parts
The Bottle Opener
You clicked this just to see if there was something here didn't you? Well joke's on you, there is.
1. Finish installing whatever cool parts you bought from us.
2. Go to the the garage fridge, grab a cold, refreshing beverage of your choice, and grab the coolest bottle opener you own (if you are cool and have one already, if you are lame and still need one so you can be cool click here)
3. Pop the top with ease, sit back somewhere you can admire the work you have done, and enjoy.
Still Need Help?
Please don't hesitate to reach out to our team. Many of us have installed these parts on our personal vehicles and would be happy to answer any questions you have.
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